Step 1
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Remove the small panel from the dash board below the steering column. Remove the brake switches. Remove the vertical bolt holding the brake pedal bracket to the steering column support with a 13-mm socket. Remove the nuts that secure the brake master cylinder to the brake booster but leave the master in place. I have found that these are most easily removed by using a 15-mm deep socket on a swivel (universal joint) and a 36-inch extension. Wrap the swivel in electrical tape to make it easier to pilot onto the nuts without having to hold it with your hand. Pull the brake pedal bracket off of the booster studs.
Step 2
With the pedal bracket pulled from the booster studs, remove the stock brake pushrod from the brake pedal. The pushrod is a very tight tolerance and will not come off easily without the bracket being released from the firewall because the brake pedal must slide out of the pushrod to the side. The pedal and bracket assembly should now be loose from the vehicle. Remove the stock lock nut and bolt that secure the brake pedal to the bracket, being sure to retain the inner sleeve and nylon bushings. Make a template of the clutch pedal foot pad out of card stock (Cereal or beer boxes work great) Use the template to cut the stock brake pedal down, removing material from the left side of the pad. Replace the stock bolt with the provided longer Grade 8 bolt and slide one flat washer onto the bolt.
Step 3
Assemble the clutch pedal on the brake pedal bracket. With the sleeve and bushings still assembled in the pedal, install the pedal to the bolt on the bracket. Next, install the other washer, and install the lock nut. Don’t be afraid to torque it down; the sleeve will allow the pedal to pivot freely. Test the pedal action. If the pedal does not move freely, remove the pedal, remove the bushings and sleeve from the pedal, and hand file the ends of the tube that is welded into the pedal. Reassemble, torque the nut, and check again. Each pedal is tested prior to packaging, but now is the time to verify one last time.
Step 4
Pull the brake booster out from the firewall. Don’t move the master any more than necessary to remove the booster studs from the firewall. Install the master cylinder bracket to the booster as shown, with clutch master interface wrapping under the booster, towards the front of the car. The studs of the booster are generally not perfectly parallel to each other due to the stamping process. It may be necessary to bend the studs slightly by threading on one of the stock nyloc nuts, placing the 15-mm deep socket over the nut, and tapping with a hammer or using an extension for leverage to tweak the studs until the bracket slides into place. This is rarely an issue.
Step 5
Cut a hole in the firewall by using the picture provided (which can be enlarged by clicking.) The red region is the area needed for the pushrod to pass through. The large circular hole at the bottom is the stock cruise control hole. If it is not present on your car, you can locate it with the dimples shown, which are present on all G-bodies. There should also be a dimple at the center of where the cruise control hole would go. The notch can be created by drilling a 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch hole at the top and using a body saw or jig saw to cut vertically, connecting the cruise control hole to the top hole. If you are unsure about your hole placement, it is recommended to assemble the bracket to the firewall using 3/8-inch bolts and assemble the clutch master to the bracket before reassembling the booster and pedal assembly.
Step 6
Reverse the removal process to reinstall the pedal bracket and booster. Install the booster first, and then the pedals. Be sure to install the stock brake pushrod to the brake pedal before installing the pedal bracket to the booster studs.
Step 7
Install the clutch master cylinder to the master cylinder bracket using the provided 5/16-inch bolts and lock washers. The bracket is threaded.
For the F-body master, if an AN adapter is being used, install it before installing the master cylinder. Lubricate the O-ring on the fitting and secure with the roll pin. Slip the lock washers onto the bolts and then into the master cylinder, and finally into the mounting bracket as shown.
For the universal/Tilton master cylinder, first assemble the supplied pushrod. The supplied jamb nut threads onto the rod first and then the coupler/rod end assembly. The master cylinder rod is right hand thread and the rod end is left-hand thread, allowing the pushrod length to be adjusted by loosening the jamb nuts and turning the coupler. Install the remote reservoir adapter onto the master, first lubricating the O-ring and being sure it doesn’t twist as the adapter is pressed on. If the O-ring will not cooperate, the is a lubricant called Sil-Glyde that is brake fluid proof. Install the -3AN fitting (included with the master cylinder kit) into the outlet port with the long side into the master. Install the -3 to -4 fitting (sold separately) onto the -3 fitting. Install the master cylinder onto the SSM bracket. One of the bolts on the SSM bracket is installed from the rear, as a stud. It is not possible to install it from the other side due to the design of the Tilton master cylinder. Remove the bolt from the bracket that does not have a nut, keeping the lock washer on the bolt. Remove only the nut and lock washer from the other bolt. Install the bolt through the “bottom” of the master cylinder, opposite the remote reservoir boss. Slip the other mounting hole over the stud on the SSM bracket and secure with the lock washer and nut.
For either master cylinder, Double-check the hole in the firewall for adequate clearance by holding the master pushrod in line with where it bolts to the pedal and depressing the pedal. Do not hook up the fluid line to the master cylinder yet.
Step 8
Connect the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal (with the pushrod-end on the right side of the pedal as viewed from the driver’s seat) using the provided bolt. Secure with the nut on the other side of the pedal to lock the bolt in place securely. Check once again for firewall to pushrod clearance by gently depressing the clutch pedal fully. If there is interference, remove the master cylinder and trim as needed.
For an F-body master, disconnect the pushrod from the pedal and install the included clutch pedal pushrod boot before reconnecting the pushrod to the pedal. For a universal master, do not install the boot yet.
Connect the fluid lines to the master cylinder and bleed the system. It is best to start by bleeding the master cylinder by looping the line into the reservoir and submerging the end. Pump the pedal until no more bubbles come out. Then install the line to the slave cylinder and bleed with the slave cylinder’s bleeder.
Install the supplied rubber pedal pad covers on the pedal pads to prevent slippage.
Test the clutch pedal. For the universal master cylinder, the free height and release point may be tuned with the adjustable pushrod. Be sure the clutch is fully releasing with some stroke to spare to avoid unnecessary wear on the transmission. After the pushrod is adjusted, the boot may be installed.
It is recommended to install a pedal stop for racing applications. A suspension bump stop installed into the floor works well.