Remove the nuts that secure the brake master cylinder to the brake booster but leave the master in place. Remove the pin securing the brake pushrod to the brake pedal but do not disconnect the pushrod. This is made easier by first removing the small dash panel below the steering column. There is a 13 mm bolt at the top of the bracket which secures the bracket to the dash vertically. Then there are four 15-mm nyloc nuts securing the pedal bracket to the brake booster studs which stick through the firewall. I have found that these are most easily removed by using a 15-mm deep socket on a swivel (universal joint) and a 36-inch extension. Wrap the swivel in electrical tape to make it easier to pilot onto the nuts without having to hold it with your hand.
With the pedal bracket pulled from the booster studs, remove the stock brake pushrod from the brake pedal. The pushrod is a very tight tolerance and will not come off easily without the bracket being released from the firewall because the brake pedal must slide out of the pushrod to the side. The pedal and bracket assembly should now be loose from the vehicle. Remove the stock lock nut and bolt that secure the brake pedal to the bracket, being sure to retain the inner sleeve and nylon bushings. Make a template of the clutch pedal foot pad out of card stock (Cereal or beer boxes work great) Use the template to cut the stock brake pedal down, removing material from the left side of the pad. Replace the stock bolt with the provided longer Grade 8 bolt and slide one flat washer onto the bolt.
Assemble the clutch pedal on the brake pedal bracket. Clip the wire tie that holds the sleeve, bushings, and washer to the pedal with a pair of wire cutters. With the sleeve and bushings still assembled in the pedal, install the pedal to the bolt on the bracket. Next, install the other washer, and install the lock nut. Don’t be afraid to torque it down; the sleeve should allow the pedal to pivot freely. Test the pedal action. If the pedal does not move freely, remove the pedal, remove the bushings and sleeve from the pedal, and hand file the ends of the tube that is welded into the pedal to remove the paint. Reassemble, torque the nut, and check again.
Pull the brake master cylinder away from the booster, being careful to retain the “bullet” which is between the master and booster. It will probably stay in the booster. The brake lines will hold the master, or you can have a helper hold it. Don’t move the master any more than necessary to remove the booster from the firewall. Install the master cylinder bracket to the booster as shown. The studs of the booster are generally not perfectly parallel to each other due to the stamping process. It may be necessary to bend the studs slightly by threading on one of the stock nyloc nuts, placing the 15-mm deep socket over the nut, and tapping with a hammer until the bracket slides into place.
Cut a hole in the firewall by using the picture provided (which can be enlarged by clicking.) The large circular hole at the bottom is the stock cruise control hole. If it is not present on your car, you can locate it with the dimples shown, which are present on all G-bodies. The notch can be created by drilling a 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch hole at the top and using a body saw or jig saw to cut vertically, connecting the cruise control hole to the top hole. If you are unsure about your hole placement, it is recommended to assemble the bracket to the firewall using 3/8-inch bolts and assemble the clutch master to the bracket before reassembling the booster and pedal assembly. The Universal Master Cylinder Kit requires the notch to be more to the right, even with the right edge of the cruise control hole.
Reverse the removal process to reinstall the pedal bracket and booster. Install the booster first, and then the pedals. Be sure to install the stock brake pushrod to the brake pedal before installing the pedal bracket to the booster studs.
Install an LT1 or LS1 F-body clutch master cylinder to the master cylinder bracket using the provided 5/16-inch bolts and lock washers. The bracket is threaded. Double-check the hole in the firewall for adequate clearance by holding the master pushrod in line with where it bolts to the pedal and depressing the pedal. Do not hook up the fluid line to the master cylinder yet.
Connect the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal (with the pushrod-end on the right side of the pedal as viewed from the driver’s seat) using the provided 3/8-inch bolt. You may optionally install a 3/8-16 nut on the bolt, on the other side of the pedal, to lock the bolt in place more securely. Check once again for firewall to pushrod clearance by gently depressing the clutch pedal fully. If there is no interference, disconnect the pushrod from the pedal and install the included clutch pedal pushrod boot before reconnecting the pushrod to the pedal. Connect the fluid lines to the master cylinder and bleed the system. Install the included rubber pedal pad covers on the pedal pads to prevent slippage.